LCM Diary: SS17

26 July 2016

Oliver Spencer by Seungbae Park

Oliver Spencer by Seungbae Park

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Katie Eary by Federica Tenti

Katie Eary by Federica Tenti

An array of messy-haired men (and women) walked the Agi & Sam catwalk, dressed in cow print and marigold gloves, representing the design duo’s epitome of the modern man. But rather than referencing ‘urban’ and street style inspirations that seem to constantly influence men’s fashion, Agape Mdumulla and Sam Cotton’s modern man was inspired by the British countryside. Or, more specifically, Sam’s house-husband father and his life on a farm. Whimsical peonies garnished the faces of the men and the presence of fuchsia pink socks flirted with feminine inspirations, and this was balanced with some British humour: a t-shirt printed with the face of Del Boy.

Agi & Sam by Holly Friend

BERTHOLD by Desirèe Cremona

BERTHOLD by Desirèe Cremona

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BOY LONDON by Irina Chira

BOY LONDON by Irina Chira

TOPMAN Design by Federica Tenti

TOPMAN Design by Federica Tenti

KTZ by Seungbae Park

KTZ by Seungbae Park

Just a few hours before her collaboration with British heritage brand Jaeger was revealed, Lou Dalton’s eponymous collection made its mark on LCM, proving that outerwear designers continue to be relevant in the summer months. The show, according to Dalton, was inspired by the walks she went on as a child with her brother. Being brought up in Shropshire, these were rainy summer walks. Accordingly, the models sported dewy hair and skin, which added an element of theatre to the practical waterproof anoraks and printed PVC shirts. Unlike her Jaeger collaboration, Dalton’s outerwear was colourful. Rust orange, butter yellow and baby blue hues may not be an obvious colour palette for menswear, but Dalton argued a strong case. Another unexpected twist to the rainwear-centric collection was the presence of socks and sandals, worn confidently together with every look.

Lou Dalton by Holly Friend

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Seungbae Park

Seungbae Park

House of Holland by Seungbae Park

House of Holland by Seungbae Park

Tiger of Sweden by Desirèe Cremona

Tiger of Sweden by Desirèe Cremona

CMMN SWDN's home is in Malmö, a creative wonderland in Sweden, where the brand was born in 2012 through the designs of Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund. The pair first met at Central Saint Martins in 2004. Now, their collection contained clean-cut menswear designs with a 70s feel through its clean collars, mustard tones and tucked in leather. Zipped polo necks and mesh vests placed a vision of the 70s in the 21st century, but still kept it fresh and offered something different rather than just the unimaginative shirt and trouser combination.

CMMN SWDN by Jessica Davies

Craig Green's collection was an absolute masterpiece. With references to his childhood, the designer drew his inspiration from boy scout neckerchiefs and uniforms. The themes of deconstruction and the reimagining of boyhood were very strong throughout the collection with the use of flags, panels of laced-up eyelets, and hooded anoraks that shrunk over the faces. Other standout garments were the quilted wide-legged trousers and the double-breasted blazers that encapsulated how the modern man is a progression, yet dismantling, of his youth.

Craig Green by Lawrence Gorton

Tourne de Transmission by Desiree Cremona

Tourne de Transmission by Desiree Cremona

Tourne de Transmission by Desirèe Cremona

Tourne de Transmission by Desirèe Cremona

SONGZIO by Desirèe Cremona

SONGZIO by Desirèe Cremona

Launching his label at Fashion East's menswear installations last year, Vogue Paris referred to Edward Crutchley as the rising star of fashion. He's returned with his third collection at LCM with his signature patterns remaining central throughout, following on from his seasonally defining AW16 looks. Key pieces included a range of shirts in contrasted volumes and printed silks showing a range of global inspirations. What's rather unconventional for his summer collection is the use of latex, which was the chosen fabric for the high-neck tops and footwear in a range of colours, from soft pinks and dusty tones to gleaming whites and vividly rich tie dye patterns. Coupled with a dark colour palette, Crutchley's vision of the season came across as a deep, moody summer with delicate patterns, a touch of psychedelia and fetish.

Edward Crutchley by Jessica Davis

Qasimi by Desirèe Cremona

Qasimi by Desirèe Cremona

Mackintosh by Desirèe Cremona

Mackintosh by Desirèe Cremona